Bacvice, Split guide

Settle in for a show at Bačvice Open Air Cinema. This outdoor theater has been screening movies against an Adriatic backdrop since the 1950s. Today, the theater mostly shows independent European and some American productions. Some screenings include bilingual subtitles, and it’s generally a good idea to grab tickets in advance.

There’s almost always a game of ‘picigin’ in motion at Bačvice Beach. Invented right here, this uniquely Croatian pastime sees players diving and leaping to keep a small ball from touching the water. The rules might be hard to follow, but the athleticism — and pure joy — make it one of Split’s most entertaining seaside traditions.

Spain perfected the siesta, but the Dalmatian coast has its own form of rest and relaxation. ‘Fjaka’ is the art of doing nothing. And Bačvice’s public beaches and leafy parks are the ideal spot to perfect your fjaka. So grab a beach chair and umbrella or a shady spot under a tree, and let your mind wander.

Sandy, shallow Bačvice Beach is probably the neighborhood’s most popular, and for good reason. It’s close to the city center, with an inflatable aqua park, as well as beach chairs and snack bars. But it can also get crowded, especially during the summer. The amenities at Ovčice and Firule beaches are a little more basic, but the water is just as warm.

Beach chairs and sun umbrellas might cost money, but the views are free. Watch the sun rise at Park Pomoraca, overlooking the port. While you’re there, check out Seafarer’s Lighthouse, a World War II memorial and the tallest lighthouse in Croatia. A promenade leads you past beachside clubs to another shady park near Firule, with views of Brac island.

The best restaurants in Bačvice combine classic Mediterranean flavors and ingredients with a modern flair. In local ‘konobas’ (taverns), you’ll find traditional dishes like ‘ćevapčići’ (meatballs). Try mussels or shrimp cooked ‘buzara’ style, with wine and fresh herbs, or fresh-caught tuna tartare. Whether you’re inside a rustic tavern or enjoying waterfront views, the atmosphere comes free with the food.

When the sun sets, Bačvice’s waterfront bars and clubs keep the energy going with cocktails, live DJs and sea views. Many charge a cover in summer but are often free when things quiet down. For a change of pace, grab a table at one of Split’s nearby brewpubs serving excellent local craft beer.

There are plenty of places to pick up everyday essentials in Bačvice, as well as some souvenir kiosks along the beach. But serious shoppers will want to head to Split’s Old Town nearby, where you’ll uncover unique finds like handmade jewelry and local art. Artisanal chocolatiers, confectionery stores and other gourmet goodies are great places to pick up souvenirs.

Bačvice Beach hosts concerts, festivals and sporting events year-round. On New Year’s Day, locals brave the icy water for a game of picigin, the beach’s signature sport. June brings both the Picigin World Championships and Mediterranean Film Festival Split, with screenings at Bačvice Open Air Cinema. In October, crowds gather along the promenade to watch the Mrduja Regatta.